Khyber Pass, Risalpur and Mardan

The Khyber Pass

Early start, bus left at 8:15 for the Khyber Pass.  A fantastic trip and well worth it.  We first had to get a permit and pick up our armed guard!  This took some time and we whiled away the time standing on the street watching the world go by.  There are far more horse/donkey drawn carts here than in Karachi.  Virtually Every vehicle which passed by people waved at us.  They all seem so friendly.  Eventually Shah emerged with our permits and two guards with Kalashnikovs, and we set off.

It took about 20 minutes to reach the tribal areas, on the way we passed a huge Afghan refugee camp.  Mud covered brick dwellings, very cramped with narrow streets extending back from the main road.  Every sort of activity going on  brick making,  markets selling food, wood or hardware and several coffin makers, with their wares stacked up on the street.

We passed through a smugglers town, where contraband is brought over from China via Afghanistan.  This included electronic equipment, ceramics and all sorts of hardware.  Bicycles are brought but have to be ridden the 30 Km or so through the Pass.

The drive up through the Pass was excellent.  We stopped several times to take photos of the pass and forts.  It is tradition for regiments serving in the Pass to put a plaque on the rock faces.  In evidence were The Royal Sussex, Yorks & Lancs., The Gordon Highlanders and many more.

We were only allowed to go as far as 5 Km from the border, but from there we could clearly see it as it is marked out in large numerals on the hillsides.

Up the Khyber with our armed guards

A village was visible on the far side which had the appearance of a large lorry park, they being loaded up with goods before setting off into Pakistan.

On the way back we stopped in the village of Landi Kotal, the last village before the frontier.  We looked around the bazaar.  A fabulous place, a real contrast to the Empress Market in Karachi, in that it was reasonably clean and did not smell.  It sold similar goods, but also more including textiles and guns (the only person who did not want to be photographed). Again everyone was friendly and they were as interested in us as we were in them.

A street in Landi Kotal close to the Afghan border

Risalpur

In the afternoon a group of 5 of us took a trip to Risalpur and Mardan.  Risalpur is where Pop was stationed for a while, and he wanted to revisit the officers mess and his bungalow.  ‘The Colonel’ had arranged entry for us with a Group Captain there.  We arrived at the airbase, but as we could not find the guard house we drove straight in and up to the officers mess.  There was little security and we were not stopped anywhere.   The cantonment was very spacious with wide open avenues and lots of gardens.  At the officer’s mess reception there was some confusion.  The Group Captain could not be reached at first and when eventually he was he did not know anything about it.  In any case, as usual, everyone was very helpful and a guide was arranged

The mess was virtually unchanged which was great.  Some wooden panelling had been removed, but it was still possible to see how it had once been.  The Silver apparently was en-route to the new mess which had been built next door.

Sadly Pop’s bungalow had disappeared under a new development which was a shame.

We made a dash back for Peshawar to have tea with ‘The Colonel’ at the Peshawar Club (formerly The British Officers’ Club).  We took a slightly more back road.  It was fascinating seeing the real villages and small towns.  All had small open fronted shops onto the road, selling all variety of items.  One curious thing is that the butchers tend to sit on their tables with the meat.  I even saw one cutting his finger nails with a large carving knife.

Tea at the Peshawar Club was good.  The Club was unchanged and we had tea and sandwiches on the lawn.  The library there seems to have all the same books as in 1947.  It is now owned and run by the military as they are only ones who can afford the upkeep.